How I painted the main elements and the heraldry of my medieval knights. This guide has been broken down into sections so you can either replicate the schemes of my specific knights or use them to design your own. Please do not follow this as a step-by-step, but just take what you need or are interested in.
  I've published this guide, but it is still somewhat of a work in progress. Anything that is fully fleshed out (and has a photo) is good to go.
I do however have plans to expand the range of colours used for clothing and heraldry.
Skin 
- Basecoat the skin with 4 parts   Cadian Fleshtone , 4 parts   Ushabti Bone  and 1 of   White . This sounds more complicated than it is, but its just an equal parts mix of two paints and a touch of white. Feel free to wing it.
 - Take a little of the base colour and mix it 3:1 with   Doombull Brown . Use this colour to add  soft shading to the skin.
 - Add more select shading with 5:1   Doombull Brown  and   Abaddon Black .
 - Take a little of the base colour and mix it 2:1 with   White  . Use this colour to add highlights to the skin.
 - Now mix the base colour 1:1 with   White  and add selective highlights.
 
Chainmail and Steel
- Basecoat with   Leadbelcher .
 - Wash with   Nuln Oil .
 - I also like to enhance the shading in recesses and where areas of steel need separating. For this I typically use glazes of   Agrax Earthshade . 
 - Overbrush and highlight using   Ironbreaker .
 - Finish with selective highlights of   Silver RLM01 Metallic .
 
Blades
- Basecoat with Vallejo Metal Color   Silver .
 - Glaze shading over half of the blade with   Gryph-charger Grey . I would recommend keeping this thin and doing a couple of passes.
 - Repeat on the half furthest from the pure silver, creating a rudimental gradient. This time I use   Nuln Oil  straight from the pot.
 - Ensure tall edges are highlighted, where the previous two sets of glazes may have over spilled. For this I like to use   Ironbreaker , simply because I find it catches edges easier than Vallejo Metal Color paints.
 - Finish with selective highlights of   Silver RLM01 Metallic  on edges that still have the solid   Silver  basecoat. Focus more highlights towards the tip.
 
Gold Details
- Basecoat using   Retributor Armour .
 - Shade selectively with   Reikland Fleshshade  where there are details or recesses that need more definition.
 - Add some   Silver RLM01 Metallic  to the   Retributor Armour , and highlight selectively.
 - Finish with a few dots of pure   Silver RLM01 Metallic .
 
Dark Brown Leather 
- Basecoat with   Rhinox Hide .
 - Add edge highlights to everything and volumetric highlights with   Doombull Brown .
 - Selectively highlight with   XV-88 , using the big highlights from the previous stage as a guide.
 - Finish with very small   Screaming Skull  highlights.
 
Padded Armour
- Basecoat with 1:1   Karak Stone  and   White .
 - Wash with   Tallarn Sand . To make this I simply mixed it 1:1 with   Lahmian Medium .
 - Shade selectively with   Steel Legion Drab .
 - Highlight with the 1:1   Karak Stone  and   White  mix from earlier.
 - Highlight selectively with   White .
 
Wood
- Basecoat with   Thondia Brown .
 - Shade with   Rhinox Hide .
 - Highlight and add woodgrain with a mix of 2:1   Thondia Brown  and   Steel Legion Drab .
 - Take the above paint and mix it 1:1 with   Administratum Grey . Now use this for fine highlights.
 - Increase the amount of   Administratum Grey  again, then add selective highlights.
 - Finish with a few specular highlights of pure   Administratum Grey .
 
Tinctures
I decided to stick to traditional heraldic colours for my knights, and locked down some standard recipes. Hopefully this results in their shields looking pretty authentic.
These first two recipes are "metals" and should be applied either on or under the colours that follow them. Generally speaking, "metals" should not be placed on "metals" and colours shouldnot be placed on "colours".
Argent (Silver/White)
- Basecoat with 1:2   Corax White  and   White .
 - Glaze some shading in with   Corax White . This shading should be very general, and leave plenty of room for extra shading.
 - Enhance the above shading with   Administratum Grey , covering a smaller area.
 - Shade the very deepest recesses with   Stormvermin Fur .
 - Highlight edges with   White .
 
Or (Gold/Yellow)
- Basecoat with   Averland Sunset .
 - Glaze shading in with   Skrag Brown . Be careful and consider doing multiple passes. This will be very powerful over the base colour.
 - Enhance this shading with smaller amount of   Doombull Brown .
 - Add chunky highlights with   Yriel Yellow .
 - Highlight everything again, this time with fine lines of   Flash Gitz Yellow . Now is also a good time to add in a few fine scratches.
 - Selectively highlight with   Ice Yellow .
 - Finish with a few specular highlights of   White  on upward facing curves and corners.
 
...and now for the "colours". this will probably make up the majority of your heraldry in most instances.
Gules (Red)
- Basecoat with 1:1   Mephiston Red  and   Evil Sunz Scarlet .
 - Glaze  some general shading in with   Khorne Red .
 - Enhance the above step with a smaller amount of   Khorne Red  mixed 1:1 with   Abaddon Black .
 - Add chunky highlights of   Evil Sunz Scarlet .
 - Apply fine edhe highlights of   Troll Slayer Orange . Now is also a good time to add in a few fine scratches.
 - Selectively highlight with   Tau Light Ochre .
 - Finish with a few specular/very small highlights of 1:1   Tau Light Ochre  and   White  on upward facing curves and corners.
 
Sable (Black)
- Basecoat: Black
Chunky Highlight: Stegadon Scale Green & Black 1:1
Chunky Highlight: Stegadon Scale Green
Highlight: Stegadon Scale Green & Wraithbone 1:1
Highlight: Celestra Grey
Dot Highlight: White 
Azure (Blue)
- Basecoat with   Macragge Blue .
 - Glaze  some general shading in with   Kantor Blue .
 - Enhance the above step with a smaller amount of with smaller amount of   Kantor Blue  mixed 1:1 with   Abaddon Black .
 - Add highlights with 1:1   Macragge Blue  and   Calgar Blue .
 - Apply fine highlights of   Calgar Blue .
 - Selectively highlight with   Fenrisian Grey .
 - Finish with a few specular/very small highlights of   Blue Horror  on upward facing curves and corners.
 
Vert (Green)
- Basecoat:Warpstone Glow
Soft Shade: Warpstone Glow + Rhinox Hide
Recess Shade: Warpstone Glow + Black
Chunky Highlight: Warpstone Glow + Moot Green 2:1
Highlight: Warpstone Glow + Moot Green + Screaming Skull 2:2:1
Final Highlight: Moot Green + Screaming Skull
Dot Highlights: Screaming Skull 
Purpure (Purple)
- Basecoat: Barak-Nar Burgundy
Wash: Naggaroth Night
Recess Wash: Black & Naggaroth Night 1:1
Highlight: Naggaroth Night & Screamer Pink 1:1
Glaze: Screamer Pink
Highlight: Naggaroth Night, Screamer Pink & Deepkin Flesh 1:1:2
Highlight: Naggaroth Night, Screamer Pink & Deepkin Flesh 1:1:8
Highlight: Deepkin Flesh 
These next three are "stains". It seems likely that these are just variant of the reds and purples used above, but the term of stain for them seems to have stuck and seem to represent some sort of dishonour. If you were building a narrative around your force, they may be nice to include.
Murrey (Mulberry)
- Basecoat: Khorne Red & Screamer Pink 1:1
Shade: Khorne Red & Incubi 1:2
Chunky: Wazdakka & Screamer Pink 2:1
Edge: Wazdakka & Morghast Bone 1:1
Edge: Wazdakka & Screaming Skull 1:1
Corner: Add White to previous mix (edited) 
Sanguine (Blood Red)
- Basecoat: Black & Khorne Red
Recess Shade: Black
Highlight: Khorne Red
Highlight: Wazdakka Red
Highlight: Squig Orange
Highlight: Tau Light Ochre 
Tenné (Tawny)
- Basecoat: Balor Brown
Soft Shade: XV-88
Deep Shade: Doombull Brown
Highlight: Averland Sunset
Highlight: Averland Sunset & Dorn Yellow 1:1
Highlight: Dorn Yellow - Here are some other colours I have used. There is no historical precedent for these, but thought I would share anyway... 
 
Blue-Grey
- Basecoat with   Russ Grey .
 - Mix some   The Fang  and   Rhinox Hide  1:1 and leave it for the next stage. For now add a blob to your   Russ Grey  and shade your established basecoat.
 - Further refine the shading with the 1:1   The Fang  and   Rhinox Hide  mix from earlier.
 - Apply chunky highlights of   Fenrisian Grey .
 - Add finer highlights using   Blue Horror . Now is also a good time to add in a few fine scratches.
 - Mix the   Blue Horror  1:1 with   White  and selectively highlight.
 - Finish with a few specular highlights of pure   White .
 
Whilst you could use the recipes from the heraldry for the tabard, I mixed up the paints used (most of the time). My reasoning was that the cloth should read as a different material to the vibrant shield and would catch the light differently, due to its texture.
Dark Green Cloth
- Basecoat with   Caliban Green .
 - Shade between folds and the inside of the tabard with 1:1   Caliban Green  and   Abaddon Black .
 - Add chunky highlights of 1:1   Caliban Green  and   Warboss Green .
 - Take some of the previous colour and mix it 1:1 with more   Warboss Green . Now use this colour for fine highlights.
 - Mix the previous paint with an equal amount of   Screaming Skull . This colour is great for selectively highlighting corners and curves.
 - Finish with a few specular highlights of pure   Screaming Skull .
 
Dark Red Cloth
- Basecoat with   Khorne Red .
 - Shade between folds and the inside of the tabard with 1:1   Khorne Red  and   Abaddon Black .
 - Add chunky highlights of 1:1   Khorne Red  and   Mephiston Red .
 - Now apply fine highlights of   Evil Sunz Scarlet .
 - Selectively highlight with   Fire Dragon Bright .
 - Finish with a few specular highlights of   Lugganath Orange , where needed.
 
Dark Blue Cloth
- Basecoat with   Kantor Blue .
 - Shade recesses with a thin mix of 1:1   Kantor Blue  and   Abaddon Black .
 - Highlight with 1:1   Kantor Blue  and   Teclis Blue .
 - Apply fine highlights of   Teclis Blue .
 - Selectively highlight with   Lothern Blue .
 - Finish with a very small/specular highlights of   Blue Horror .
 
White Cloth
- Basecoat with   Corax White .
 - Wash with   Administratum Grey . To make this I simply mixed it 1:1 with   Lahmian Medium .
 - Shade recesses with some thinned   Dawnstone .
 - Define breaks in material and shade very deep parts, using thinned   Eshin Grey .
 - Highlight raised areas with 1:1   Corax White  and   White .
 - Finish with fine/selective highlights of pure   White .
 
Burgundy Cloth
- Basecoat with   Khorne Red .
 - Shade recesses with a thin mix of 1:1   Khorne Red  and   Incubi Darkness .
 - Enhance the shading by adding some   Abaddon Black  to the previous mix and shading more selectively.
 - Apply highlights of   Wazdakka Red .
 - Now fine highlight everything with   Squig Orange .
 - Mix your   Squig Orange  1:1 with   Pallid Wych Flesh  then selectively highligh.
 - Take the above mix and add in more   Pallid Wych Flesh . Use this for some final very small highlights.
 
Bases
- Basecoat with   Mournfang Brown . It is best to thin a little with water to ensure it flows into all of the recesses. Give it a couple of coats, until the colour is solid.
 - Drybrush with   Zamesi Desert , picking out all of the raised detail.
 - Give the base a second dryrbush with   Ushabti Bone . Make this drybrush a little lighter, so it only picks out the most raised points.
 - Basecoat the rocks with   Dawnstone .
 - Wash the rocks with a little   Agrax Earthshade .
 - Highlight the rocks with   Administratum Grey .
 - Mix some   White . into your   Administratum Grey  and more selectively highlight the rocks.
 - Finally, finish off by painting the rim with   Steel Legion Drab .
 
Now all that remains is to apply any turfs or flock that you wish. I like to use PVA glue and some flock from my local model shop.
         
        
        
          
  
  
    
      Aspiring miniature painter and biscuit enthusiast. Here to share my hobby and help where I can.