I've decided to eventually get around to making 1:1 colour schemes for all of the Tyranid Warrior art works of the 9 main Hive Fleets. Kronos is to be the first as it was the Hive Fleet I played during 9th Ed (that, and I am thoroughly biased for it haha). The model used in both this and all later 1:1 recipes is a Tyranid Warrior, built (possibly cut up / kitbashed if necessary) and posed to be as close to the art as possible. Each scheme will also include a Neuroloid when eventually photographed to serve as examples for brain matter that fit each Hive Fleet, as close to the style each artwork was made with so to stay true to it. The next 1:1 will be Jormungandr, followed by Behemoth, Kraken, Ouroboros, Hydra, Leviathan, Tiamat, and Gorgon in this order. To keep things as simple to follow / do yourself, all paints used will be from Citadel. Each ratio and mix has been tested multiple times, and is made to be exactly as shown in the art, so each ratio mentioned will be extremely specific. If anyone has any questions or requests for artwork 1:1 recipes, feel free to ask me through Discord, located in my profile.

Carapace (Body)

1. Prime with Chaos Black .
2. Drybrush heavily with Dryad Bark for smaller infantry, and Rhinox Hide for monsters. Do so only on the main body, i.e. neck, chest / upper torso, waist, and the base of the tail.
3. Drybrush with Stormvermin Fur to a medium extent. On areas like the neck, waist and any other parts that would be less armoured or considered squishy, add a light drybrush of Mephiston Red over the Stormvermin Fur .
4. Paint the heat sinks (the open vents on spore chimneys and limbs) with Bugman's Glow , then with Carroburg Crimson thinned to a quarter ratio, 1 part CC, 3 parts water. Lahmian Medium can be used alternatively for this if you wish, however I do not recommend it nor do I have a ratio for it as I don't own any Citadel mediums due to my dislike of them.

Chitin (Everywhere but the Head)

1. Paint the Chitin with a 1:1 mix of Khorne Red and Mephiston Red .
2. Apply a shade mix of 2 parts Nuln Oil , 1 part Agrax Earthshade , 1.75 (1_3/4) parts water, and 0.25 (1/4) Abaddon Black to the recesses of the chitin.
3. Gently drybrush the carapace with Mephiston Red consistently until you have full coverage. You should be at a point where it gives an effect similar to both dusting it with an airbrush to add an all aspect light sourced and a heavier drybrush, just without filling any shaded areas.
4. Continue to drybrush with Mephiston Red , but this time slowly add Wild Rider Red into the Mephiston Red until you are only using Wild Rider Red , brushing lighter and softer with each layer. This will build a gradient once again similar to airbrushing, but you get to keep those shaded areas.

Chitin (Head)

1. Paint the Chitin with a 1:1 mix of Khorne Red and Mephiston Red .
2. Apply a shade mix of 2 parts Nuln Oil , 1 part Agrax Earthshade , 1.75 (1_3/4) parts water, and 0.25 (1/4) Abaddon Black to the recesses of the chitin.
3. Gently drybrush the carapace with Mephiston Red , then with 2 parts Mephiston Red and 1 part Wild Rider Red .
4. Feather the chitin on the head with 1:1 Celestra Grey and Dawnstone , heavier towards the front.
5. Drybrush the front and second plate of the chitin with Dawnstone , lightly on the front and only the most raised areas on the second.

Tertiary Colour for Weapons Claws and Hooves

1. Paint claws, hooves, and weapons with Stegadon Scale Green , darkened with a dot of Abaddon Black mixed in. After a solid colour is achieved, glaze with just Stegadon Scale Green to bring out as much of the often scarce details on these areas as you can.
2. Drybrush hooves with Fenrisian Grey .
3. Scything talons, rending claws and other such pointy things that may be present all get a dry highlight of Fenrisian Grey . Similar to dry brushing in application, simply drag the brush over just an edge. You will need both less paint on the brush and to be a great deal softer than normal for this.
4. Continue until each dry highlight is of a similar appearance to a chunky highlight, then do a crisp highlight of Blue Horror , starting at the tip and stopping halfway up. Selectively highlight the same area with a 1:1 mix of literally any white that isn't from citadel and Blue Horror .
5. For boneswords, give every sharp edge and raised detail a thin, crisp highlight of Fenrisian Grey , and selectively highlight these with Blue Horror
6. Ranged weapons, such as the venom cannon in the art, get a combination of the two, starting with slightly uneven, staggered highlights towards the rear, slowly transitioning into a drybrush at the tip.
7. Vents and cords on ranged weapons are all done with the same coating of Bugman's Glow and Carroburg Crimson as those on the body.

Head and Face

1. Still using a Warrior as an example, drybrush the face and back of the head heavily with Stormvermin Fur .
2. For the tongue, once again use Bugman's Glow and Carroburg Crimson .
3. The teeth are painted with Flayed One Flesh , and the eyes with Celestra Grey .

Encephalitic Tissue (Brains)

There are two options I have found that work with the colours of Hive Fleet Kronos. I am still deciding on which works better then the other, and on top of this, both methods are unfinished, and will be updated as soon as it is finalised.

Method 1 (Green-Blue)

1. Thin 1 part Sotek Green to 2 parts water. This will help reach all the folds and recesses. Repeat when each layer dries until colour is solid and the brain is fully covered.
2. Thin Lothern Blue to the same ratio, and then apply one layer only into the recesses of the brain
3. Alternately, instead of Lothern Blue , use 1 part Aeldari Emerald thinned with 2 parts water and glaze the brain for a darker, more sea-green type finish

Method 2 (Pale Orange)

1. Thin 1 part Flayed One Flesh with 1 part water. Coat the brain until you achieve a solid colour.
2. Thin 1 part Wild Rider Red with 4 parts water. Glaze the brain twice over with two separate coats so that it has even coverage. This should tint the brain slightly orange.