I built this model using the Mounted Knights (1150-1320) plastic kit from Wargames Atlantic, exclusively. My aim with this guide is to leave you with a nice playable character from the "Dramatis Personae" section in the back of The Barons' War Second edition book and pay homage to the Footsore Miniatures model also available.
  
You can find a more detailed guide, that covers painting technique and approaching characters in general in issue 137 of "Wargames Soldiers and Strategy". Be sure to check it out, if you want to see more from me.
To get started, I primed the model with   Sanguine Red  from Colour Forge. This step isn't 100% necessary, but it does make establishing a basecoat for our main colour easier.
Black Horse
- Basecoat with   Black .
 - Drybrush exposed areas with   Skavenblight Dinge . I would recommend using a small brush and take the direction of the light into consideration. This stage is to act as a main highlight and add a little texture. Feel free to use a brush to pick out highlights on hard to reach parts.
 - Selectively highlight edges and curved portions where the light mould hit using   Stormvermin Fur .
 - Mix a little   Ivory  (or another warm off-white) into your   Stormvermin Fur  and highlight more selectively.
 
Red Cloth
- Basecoat with   Mephiston Red .
 - Shade folds and downward facing cloth with some pretty thin   Khorne Red .
 - Enhance the deepest and darkest parts of the cloth. For this, I mix my   Khorne Red  1:1 with   Abaddon Black  and apply it more selectively.
 - Apply some general highlighting to folds, corners and curved surfaces that are exposed to the light. For this I used   Evil Sunz Scarlet . I applied these highlights in scratchy lines, pulling my brush towards what will be the brightest point.
 - Highlight again, this time covering a smaller area with   Troll Slayer Orange .
 - Selectively highlight the brightest point using   Fire Dragon Bright . You should be highlighting within the bound of the previous stage, accentuating the shape of the sculpt.
 - Finish with very small/specular highlights of   Fire Dragon Bright  mixed 1:1 with some   White .
 
I used this same recipe for the shield, just applied it in a slightly different way. Instead of relying upon scratchy highlights to add texture, I instead highlighted with clean and pretty uniform lines, making full use of the sharp edges on the shield. To stop things looking too uniform, I painted a few scratches with the final two colours, making it look like it has seen combat.
Decals
For those of you that are interested, I used the wonderful "Leopards - Yellow" sheet from Forgotten Chapters for the lions on the shield and caparison. It is a wonderful set and a worthy purchase for your Barons' War retinue.
https://www.forgottenchapters.eu/product/leopards-yellow/
Please do show some love and check out the rest of their sheets too!
Blue Cloth
- Basecoat with   Kantor Blue .
 - Shade recesses with a thin mix of 1:1   Kantor Blue  and   Abaddon Black .
 - Apply chunky edge highlights of 1:1   Kantor Blue  and   Teclis Blue .
 - Now highlight everything again, using fine lines of   Teclis Blue .
 - Selectively highlight with 1:1   Teclis Blue  and   Administratum Grey .
 - Finish with specular highlights of   Administratum Grey .
 
NMM Gold Trim
My method here is pretty loose, and I went back and forth a lot until I was fairly happy. As such, a step-by step will be hard. Instead I will simply list the paint I used in the rough order I did them. 
- Basecoat of 1:1   Rhinox Hide  &   Balor Brown .
 -   Rhinox Hide 
 -   Balor Brown 
 -   Balor Brown  and   Flash Gitz Yellow  1:1
 - Previous mix and   Ice Yellow  1:1
 - Small highlights of   Ice Yellow .
 - Specular highlights with a 1:1 mix of   Ice Yellow  and   White .
 
I wasn't super impressed with the vibrancy of the gold when I was done, so I glazed with   Fluorescent Yellow , then applied the last two highlights again.
Wood
- Basecoat with   Thondia Brown .
 - Shade with   Rhinox Hide .
 - Highlight and add woodgrain with a mix of 2:1   Thondia Brown  and   Steel Legion Drab .
 - Take the above paint and mix it 1:1 with   Administratum Grey . Now use this for fine highlights.
 - Increase the amount of   Administratum Grey  again, then add selective highlights.
 - Finish with a few specular highlights of pure   Administratum Grey .
 
Dark Brown Leather 
- Basecoat with   Rhinox Hide .
 - Add edge highlights to everything and volumetric highlights with   Doombull Brown .
 - Selectively highlight with   XV-88 , using the big highlights from the previous stage as a guide.
 - Finish with very small   Screaming Skull  highlights.
 
Saddle Pad
- Basecoat with   Karak Stone .
 - Shade with   Steel Legion Drab .
 - Deep shade with a 1:1 mix of   Steel Legion Drab  and   Rhinox Hide .
 - Glaze/chunky highlight with 1:1   Karak Stone  and   Screaming Skull . I would recommend doing several passes here, to really boost the brightness and always pull your brush towards the edge.
 - Mix some of the previous paint 1:1 with   White  and add fine highlights.
 - Mix your   Karak Stone ,   Screaming Skull . and   White  1:1 with more   White . Now apply selective highlights with this bright paint.
 - Finish with specular highlights of   White .
 
Chainmail and Steel
- Basecoat with   Leadbelcher .
 - Wash with   Nuln Oil .
 - I also like to enhance the shading in recesses and where areas of steel need separating. For this I typically use glazes of   Agrax Earthshade . 
 - Overbrush and highlight using   Ironbreaker .
 - Finish with selective highlights of   Silver RLM01 Metallic .
 
Blade
- Basecoat with   Silver .
 - Glaze shading over half of the blade with   Gryph-charger Grey . I would recommend keeping this thin and doing a couple of passes.
 - Repeat on the half furthest from the pure silver, creating a rudimental gradient. This time I use   Nuln Oil  straight from the pot.
 - Ensure tall edges are highlighted, where the previous two sets of glazes may have over spilled. For this I like to use   Ironbreaker , simply because I find it catches edges easier than Vallejo Metal Color paints.
 - Finish with selective highlights of   Silver RLM01 Metallic  on edges that still have the solid   Silver  basecoat. Focus more highlights towards the tip.
 
Gold Details
- Basecoat using   Retributor Armour .
 - Shade selectively with   Reikland Fleshshade  where there are details or recesses that need more definition.
 - Add some   Silver RLM01 Metallic  to the   Retributor Armour , and highlight selectively.
 - Finish with a few dots of pure   Silver RLM01 Metallic .