My interpretation of this famous crusader order. The decals come courtesy of the fine people at forgottenchapters.eu and their "Crusader Orders V3" sheet.

Skin

1. Basecoat the skin with 4 parts Cadian Fleshtone , 4 parts Ushabti Bone and 1 of White . This sounds more complicated than it is, but its just an equal parts mix of two paints and a touch of white. Feel free to wing it.
2. Take a little of the base colour and mix it 3:1 with Doombull Brown . Use this colour to add soft shading to the skin.
3. Add more select shading with 5:1 Doombull Brown and Abaddon Black .
4. Take a little of the base colour and mix it 2:1 with White . Use this colour to add highlights to the skin.
5. Now mix the base colour 1:1 with White and add selective highlights.

Black Cloth

1. Basecoat with 4:1 Black and Kantor Blue .
2. Add edge highlights with a 1:3 mix of the base colour and Administratum Grey . Keep to an all over edge highlight, but make them a little thicker on corners and curves.
3. Selectively edge highlight with pure Administratum Grey . Aim for the areas with the heavier highlights from the previous stage.
4. Finish with very small/specular highlights of Grey Seer .

Padded Armour

1. Basecoat with 1:1 Karak Stone and White .
2. Wash with Tallarn Sand . To make this I simply mixed it 1:1 with Lahmian Medium .
3. Shade selectively with Steel Legion Drab .
4. Highlight with the 1:1 Karak Stone and White mix from earlier.
5. Highlight selectively with White .

Dark Brown Leather

1. Basecoat with Rhinox Hide .
2. Add edge highlights to everything and volumetric highlights with Doombull Brown .
3. Selectively highlight with XV-88 , using the big highlights from the previous stage as a guide.
4. Finish with very small Screaming Skull highlights.

Wood

1. Basecoat with Thondia Brown .
2. Shade with Rhinox Hide .
3. Highlight and add woodgrain with a mix of 2:1 Thondia Brown and Steel Legion Drab .
4. Take the above paint and mix it 1:1 with Administratum Grey . Now use this for fine highlights.
5. Increase the amount of Administratum Grey again, then add selective highlights.
6. Finish with a few specular highlights of pure Administratum Grey .

Or Tincture

1. Basecoat with 1:1 Zamesi Desert and Ice Yellow .
2. Shade with glazes of Averland Sunset .
3. Enhance the shading with more selective glazes of Skrag Brown .
4. Add more Ice Yellow to your basecoat, so it is now roughly 1:2 Zamesi Desert and Ice Yellow . Use this to highlight the shield.
5. More selectively highlight with Ice Yellow .
6. Finish with very small highlights of White .

For the chipping, I added dots and scratches with Dryad Bark , then underlined with a mix of Ice Yellow and White .

Chainmail and Steel

1. Basecoat with Leadbelcher .
2. Wash with Nuln Oil .
3. I also like to enhance the shading in recesses and where areas of steel need separating. For this I typically use glazes of Agrax Earthshade .
4. Overbrush and highlight using Ironbreaker .
5. Finish with selective highlights of Silver RLM01 Metallic .

Blade

1. Basecoat with Vallejo Metal Color Silver .
2. Glaze shading over half of the blade with Gryph-charger Grey . I would recommend keeping this thin and doing a couple of passes.
3. Repeat on the half furthest from the pure silver, creating a rudimental gradient. This time I use Nuln Oil straight from the pot.
4. Ensure tall edges are highlighted, where the previous two sets of glazes may have over spilled. For this I like to use Ironbreaker , simply because I find it catches edges easier than Vallejo Metal Color paints.
5. Finish with selective highlights of Silver RLM01 Metallic on edges that still have the solid Silver basecoat. Focus more highlights towards the tip.

Gold Details

1. Basecoat using Retributor Armour .
2. Shade selectively with Reikland Fleshshade where there are details or recesses that need more definition.
3. Add some Silver RLM01 Metallic to the Retributor Armour , and highlight selectively.
4. Finish with a few dots of pure Silver RLM01 Metallic .