Wargs aren’t noble wolves or pristine hunting hounds — they’re the half-feral nightmares that stalk ruined roads and blasted hillsides, bred (or broken) into weapons. This guide leans into that: muddy, natural fur, cold, unhealthy skin, and a wet, brutal mouth that makes the face the focal point. Technically, the key is texture contrast: dry, coarse fur against smoother grey skin, then sharp teeth and glossy tongue to finish.

0. Preparation & Priming

Why this matters: These models live or die on texture clarity.

Clean-up

Remove mould lines carefully, especially along:

* Muzzle and lips
* Mane ridge
* Legs and ankles

Sub-assemblies

Paint Warg mounts separately from riders.
Optional: leave the base separate for cleaner feet.

Priming

Prime with Chaos Black
Optional but recommended: light zenithal spray of Mechanicus Standard Grey from above to help define fur texture.

I. Texture-Driven Areas (Drybrush First)

This section establishes 90% of the model’s visual weight. Speed and texture matter more than neatness.

1. Primary Fur – Main Coat

Goal: coarse, natural fur with strong depth.

1. Basecoat all main fur with Rhinox Hide
2. Heavy drybrush Mournfang Brown , covering most raised texture.
3. Lighter drybrush Skrag Brown , focusing on:
   
   * Shoulders
   * Flanks
   * Hips
   * Upper legs
4. Very selective final drybrush Deathclaw Brown on the highest fur ridges only.
5. Even more selective optional drybrush with Ungor Flesh , use sparingly.

At this stage, the Warg should already read clearly at tabletop distance.

2. Mane / Raised Ridge Fur

Goal: a paler, bristling ridge that breaks the silhouette.

1. Basecoat with Steel Legion Drab . Keep this layer thin, watered down, feather it into the main fur, dont keep a hard line, make it look a natural blend.
2. Drybrush Tallarn Sand , following the sculpted fur direction.
3. Controlled highlight drybrush Ushabti Bone on the tips.
4. Optional extreme highlights with Screaming Skull on the sharpest points.

Keep this noticeably lighter than the body fur.

3. Lower Legs & Ground Interaction

Goal: dirty, grounded feet early on.

1. Light drybrush Steel Legion Drab around ankles and feet.
2. Final dusting of Tallarn Sand or Karak Stone at the very bottom edges.

II. Unifying Shade Pass

This stage ties the drybrushing together and removes chalkiness.

Fur Shading

1. Wash all fur with Agrax Earthshade . Full coverage, but don’t flood.
2. Push deeper contrast with targeted Nuln Oil :
   
   * Under the belly
   * Between shoulder fur
   * Deep mane recesses

Allow this to dry completely.

III. Smooth & Layered Areas (Skin and Form)

Now switch to controlled, deliberate layering. The rough work is done.

4. Exposed Skin (Face, Legs, Undersides)

Goal: cold, stretched, unhealthy skin with strong structure.

1. Basecoat all exposed skin with Mechanicus Standard Grey .
2. Controlled wash Nuln Oil into creases and joints. Alternatively all over wash but re-layer Mechanicus Standard Grey to the raised details afterwards.
3. Apply very thin, targeted glazes of Drakenhof Nightshade into:
   
   * Eye sockets
   * Under cheekbones
   * Under the jaw
   * Between leg tendons
4. Layer Dawnstone , leaving more shadow visible than you normally would.
   
   On legs, use long strokes to suggest tendon stretch.
5. Edge highlight Administratum Grey on:
   
   * Nose bridge
   * Brow ridge
   * Lip edges
   * Knees and ankles
6. Optional extreme points: tiny touches of Pallid Wych Flesh on the sharpest facial points only (nose tip, brow peak).

5. Fur-to-Skin Transitions (Key Detail)

To avoid a “painted on” look:

Apply a thin glaze of Rhinox Hide or Gorthor Brown where fur meets skin.

Feather slightly into the skin to represent grime and staining.

This step is subtle but crucial.

IV. Face Details (High-Impact Zone)

Eyes

1. Base Ushabti Bone
2. Thin glaze Seraphim Sepia
3. Tiny dot pupil Abaddon Black
4. Optional micro-dot White Scar for a wet glint

Mouth, Gums & Tongue

1. Base Khorne Red
2. Shade Carroburg Crimson
3. Deep recess tint Druchii Violet (very thin)
4. Layer Wazdakka Red
5. Light highlights Squig Orange on tongue edges

Teeth

1. Base Rakarth Flesh
2. Wash Seraphim Sepia
3. Re-layer Ushabti Bone
4. Thin glaze Agrax Earthshade at the base of each tooth
5. Final tips Screaming Skull

Teeth should look dirty and predatory, never white.

V. Claws & Feet

1. Base Dryad Bark
2. Layer Gorthor Brown
3. Highlight Baneblade Brown
4. Optional sharp tips Karak Stone
5. Darken the feet slightly with a thin glaze of Rhinox Hide or Steel Legion Drab .

VI. Finish & Protection

1. Apply Munitorum Varnish to the entire model.
2. Apply Ardcoat to:
   
   * Tongue
   * Gums
   * Inner mouth
   * Nose

The contrast between matte fur and wet flesh is essential.

Pack Fur Variants

Variant I – Ash-Coat (Dark, Brutal)

Fur

1. Rhinox Hide → Drybrush Gorthor Brown → Shade Nuln Oil → Drybrush highlight Baneblade Brown

Mane

1. Steel Legion Drab → Drybrush Karak Stone → Drybrush Ushabti Bone

Unifying Shade

1. Use Nuln Oil . Apply it confidently, almost like a full wash.
   
   You can still reinforce deepest recesses afterward if needed.

Skin

1. Mechanicus Standard Grey → Nuln Oil → Drakenhof Nightshade glazes → Dawnstone → Administratum Grey

Variant II – Mangy Hunter (Scruffier, Lighter)

Fur

1. Mournfang Brown base → Agrax Earthshade → Drybrush Skrag Brown → Drybrush Deathclaw Brown highlights → Patchy glazes of Baneblade Brown or Karak Stone

Mane

1. Tallarn Sand → Drybrush Ushabti Bone → Drybrush Screaming Skull

Unifying Shade

1. Use Agrax Earthshade , but:
   
   Thin it slightly. Wick excess off raised areas. Let it settle mostly into recesses.
   
   This keeps the fur light but still organic, not dusty.

Skin

1. Dawnstone base → Nuln Oil wash → Subtle Reikland Fleshshade glazes at joints → Administratum Grey highlights