Priming and Volumetrics

1. Prime: Apply a solid coat of Black Primer over the entire model.
2. Zenithal Highlight (part 1): Airbrush Matt White with the brush at a 45° angle. Aim for the face, chest, shoulders, knees, etc. while leaving the undersides black.
3. Zenithal Highlight (part 2): Highlight just the tops of the high points of armor (tops of shoulders, helmet, knees, etc.) with White Ink.

Green Armor & Decals

1. Base Tint: Airbrush a thin, translucent layer of Absolution Green over the entire model.
2. Mid-Tone: Airbrush an 8:1 mix of Greenskin + White Ink onto the upper half of each section of armor.
3. Highlight: Airbrush an 8:2:1 mix Goblin Green + White Ink + Zealot Yellow onto the upper 20% of each section of armor.
4. Subtle Edge Highlight: Lightly edge-highlight edges of the armor with a 1:1 ratio of Goblin Green + Crusader Skin . Don't add too many edge highlights.
5. Decal Application: Add a little Gloss Varnish to the decal location, wait 1-2 hours for it to harden sufficiently. Then apply a Decal Setter, place the decal, and then apply the Decal Softener. Wait 2 hours. Apply another layer of Gloss Varnish over the decal and let dry again for 1 hour.
6. Decal Chipping: With a sponge, lightly stipple a 1:1 mix of Absolution Green + Black Ink gently around the edges of the decal to simulate damage & wear.

Detail Prepping

1. Prepping the Details: Apply 2 thin coats of Black over any guns, robes, weapons, pouches/belts, purity seals, swords, chest aquila, eyes, etc. to cover any over-spray on the yet painted details.
2. Drybrush: From a downwards direction, drybrush the blacked out details with Neutral Grey , while carefully avoiding the green parts of the armor. Then do another downward drybrush of White Ink on the very edges of the details.

Detail Colors

1. Robes: Murder Scene
2. Robe Highlights: Use a small flat brush to drybrush a 1:1 mix of Murder Scene + Crusader Skin to catch the edges of the robes.
3. Guns: Slaughter Red for the red parts, Grim Black for the bottom black part, Gravelord Grey for the rest, and Burnished Red for any gold details like an aquilia.
4. Gun Highlights: Use a standard paintbrush to drybrush the edges of the red parts with a 1:1 mix of Slaughter Red + Nuclear Sunrise . Heavily stipple Broadsword Silver on the black parts. Lightly stipple Broadsword Silver on the grey parts. Lightly stipple the edges of the red parts with Polished Silver . Stipple Hoplite Gold on any burnished red parts.
5. Swords/Knives: Apply a layer of Gravelord Grey . Once dry, stipple Broadsword Silver over the whole sword.
6. Sword/Knife Highlights & Wear: Stipple Polished Silver on the top half of the blade. Lightly stipple of 1:1 mix of Gravelord Grey + Absolution Green to reflect more wear on the blade.
7. Chest Aquila: Pallid Bone
8. Chest Aquila Highlight: Use a standard paintbrush to drybrush the edges of the aquilia with White Ink.
9. Leather: Hardened Leather
10. Leather Hightlights: Take a small amount of Bone White and create dots and dashes lightly stippled around the edges with a sharp brush. Vertically drybrush a little Bone White on the bottom corners of any leather pouches to simulate wear.
11. Purity Seal: Pallid Bone , Slaughter Red
12. Purity Seal Highlight & Writing: Very lightly drybrush the parchment horizontally with White Ink, almost "dusting" it with a very dry brush. Drybrush the top half of the wax with a little Poppy Red . Simulate written text with Heavy Siena .

Oil Wash

1. Prep: Airbrush the entire model in a Gloss Varnish and wait 24 hours.
2. Slather: Mix Black + Burnt Umber Oil Paint with White Spirits until it flows like a wash. Slather the entire model.
3. Wipe: Wait 30-45 minutes, then use a Q-tip to dampened with White Spirits to gently wipe the oil away from the raised parts of the model such as the armor panels and tops of robes.
4. Matte Varnish: Wait a full 24 hours for the oils to cure, the spray the model with an Ultra-Matte Varnish.

OSL

1. Eyes (part 1): Paint the lenses with White Ink.
2. Eyes (part 2): Airbrush a faint, transparent halo of Blood Red around the eye sockets
3. Plasma Coils (part 1): Paint the coils with White Ink with a little painted onto the surrounding metal and fingers
4. Plasma Coils (part 2): Tint the white area by airbrushing Plasmatic Bolt .
5. Plasma Coils (part 3): Paint White Ink into the deepest recesses of the coil.