Basecoat with Warplock Bronze .
Apply Runelord Brass to the body, limbs, and head.- Use a makeup sponge to highlight the runelord with Brass Scorpion . Apply it very lightly over the
- Recess shade with Reikland Fleshshade . This doesn't have to be clean or even. After the brass scorpion and this shade are applied, there should still be some pure runelord brass showing.
- After that dries, do an all over wash with Reikland Fleshshade thinned 1:2 with medium. This can be thinned even more if desired.
- Do another recess shade with Agrax Earthshade after that dries, more conservatively than the first recess shade. Pretty much keep this on the undersides only.
- Apply Ratling Grime thinned 50/50 to the joints.
- For certain parts like the spine tips or the skorpekh destroyer claws, do a drybrush of Leadbelcher on the sharp/front end, then get the lowest points with some agrax before highlighting with Stormhost Silver .
- Basecoat Iron Warriors over the iron bits like the back shoulderplate and the weapons.
- Makeup sponge drybrush highlight Leadbelcher . If it's too dark, you can mix it with Stormhost Silver or use Ironbreaker .
- Wash this with Nuln Oil .
- Recess shade with Agrax Earthshade .
- Edge highlight Stormhost Silver .
- Go back and edge highlight the brass armor parts with Canoptek Alloy . Alternatively you can use Stormhost Silver mixed with a touch of Brass Scorpion
- Coat the weapons, blades, cables, and sigil with black.
- Base any glowing objects with white. Apply multiple thin, watery coats. Your main concern is getting it in the recesses.
- Do a thin layer over this white with Warpstone Glow after it dries.
- For the blades specifically, start with black and then layer Caliban Green and Warpstone Glow on various sections of the blade. I prefer to start with black, then paint the sharp blade sections with Warpstone Glow , and then one or two of the remaining black sections with Caliban Green . You can blend/glaze as well to create gradients between the sections.
- Drybrush white over this. Do a heavy drybrush over the object itself and any close edges and then just a light feathering of white on the surrounding area. This can also be done with an airbrush (as well as the following steps for the glow).
- Coat the object with Tesseract Glow . Do a full coat on the object itself, but just a glaze on the drybrushed surrounding white. For the largest glowing objects like the blades, you can do a glaze over some of the corners and edges of objects that are close to it.
- Do a very light drybrush of Flash Gitz Yellow on the center part of the object, or the blade edge.
- Do a light dot/edge highlight with white.
- The cables should get a thin glaze of Caliban Green that stops just short of the ends of the cables.
- After this dries, do another thin glaze with Warpstone Glow , this time stopping short of the end of the caliban green part.
- Add a final highlight with Tesseract Glow
Highlight the sigil with Warpstone Glow .
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