I change little details in this recipe a lot – why not, they're Orks – but this is a good rundown of how I do the overall scheme across my army. Everything here translates to vehicles and infantry.

Priming

I zenithal any model that has visible skin with an airbrush – black all over and then white, light grey, ivory, whatever from above. You can certainly do it with rattlecans if you don't have an airbrush.

For vehicles, I prime black and then basecoat in Jet Exhaust . Citadel's Iron Warriors is a fair replacement if you don't have Jet Exhaust.

Skin

1. Over your zenithal prime, cover all the skin with Plaguebearer Flesh contrast paint.
2. Wash all the skin with Biel-Tan Green . Don't go super heavy here.
3. Use Mephiston Red to fill in the eyes, and then put a dot of Sunny Skin Tone into the center of the eyes. I also use this for lenses and things, although on anything "glass" I would put a dot of white in the darkest spot, opposite the Sunny Skin Tone .
   
   If you don't have Sunny Skin Tone, you could try Citadel's Kislev Flesh or Lugganath Orange, or Inner Light from Warpaints Fanatic – all slightly different but the same ballpark.
4. Paint the teeth with Olive Flesh from Pro Acryl. Alternatives could be Citadel's Morghast Bone or Rakarth Flesh, or any warm off-white.
5. Wash the teeth with Agrax Earthshade .
6. Go back over the teeth with Olive Flesh or whatever you used, avoiding the recesses. If they're big enough teeth, you can try to paint lines like striations going vertically.
7. Highlight the raised areas of the skin with Ogryn Camo , using really thin paint (but not quite a glaze). The Plaguebearer Flesh should have left some nice warm tones within the green, so try to leave those alone if you can.
8. Highlight the sharpest areas, like elbows, knuckles, and protruding veins, and stipple some dots on the bottom lip, all with German Yellow . Krieg Khaki would also work.
9. Use Carroburg Crimson to wash the bottom lip and any scars on the skin.

Metal #1 (Rusty)

1. I do a few different metals. Here's the first one. Basecoat with a bright silver – I use Thrash Metal personally – my bottle is not dark at all, it's close to something like Citadel's Ironbreaker.
2. Wash the metal with Ratling Grime .
3. Give it a heavy drybrush with Skrag Brown .
4. Give it a light drybrush with the bright metal you basecoated with.

Metal #2 (Black)

1. Mix a black paint with Metallic Medium , 1:1. Basecoat with that. If you don't like that finish, you can start with a bright steel color and then wash with Black Templar – I've done both.
2. If you did the Metallic Medium option, wash with Nuln Oil.
3. Highlight with a bright steel, stippling against the edges and adding small scratches.

Metal #3 (Grimy)

1. Basecoat with Jet Exhaust .
2. Drybrush with a bright steel, like Thrash Metal .
3. Toss some Contrast paints or Speedpaints on metal bits where you want contrast – weapon grips, magazines, pipes, bullets, etc. Wherever you like. Personally, I use Gore-grunta Fur , Snakebite Leather , and Aggaros Dunes , but you can use basically anything.
4. Wash with either Ratling Grime , OR Nuln Oil and then Agrax Earthshade . Not sure which color tone I like better.

Black Cloth

1. Basecoat over your zenithal prime with Black Templar .
2. Edge highlight with Dark Sea Green , or any medium gray color.
3. Edge highlight in the sharpest points with Wolf Grey , or any brighter blue-grey color you like.

Dark Blue Cloth

1. Note that this bit is partially stolen from Rookie Brushes, check him out.
2. Basecoat with Dark Reaper .
3. Wash with Nuln Oil .
4. Go back over the raised areas with Dark Reaper , avoiding the folds and recesses where the Nuln Oil settled.
5. Highlight with a 1:1 mix of Dark Reaper and Administratum Grey . You could also just use a lighter grey-blue.
6. Do a final sharp highlight with Fenrisian Grey .

Red

1. If your zenithal has survived to this point, basecoat with Blood Angels Red . If you've spilled too much other paint on the primejob at this point – I often do – just use Mephiston Red .
2. Wash with Nuln Oil IF NEEDED. On flat surfaces and small areas, skip it.
3. Edge highlight with a bright red – I use Bold Pyrrole Red .
4. Dot the corners and sharpest points of whatever you're painting red with Wild Rider Red .

Grey Cloth

1. Basecoat with Skavenblight Dinge .
2. Wash with Nuln Oil .
3. Go back over the raised areas with Skavenblight Dinge , avoiding the folds and recesses where the Nuln Oil settled. This is usually skippable if you want to speed things up.
4. Edge highlight with Stormvermin Fur .

Brown Cloth

1. Basecoat with Steel Legion Drab .
2. Wash with Nuln Oil .
3. Go back over the raised areas with Steel Legion Drab :, avoiding the folds and recesses where the Nuln Oil settled. This is usually skippable if you want to speed things up.
4. Edge highlight with Karak Stone . Sometimes this comes out too bright, so you could try mixing it 1:1 with Steel Legion Drab , or using Baneblade Brown instead.

Leather

1. Basecoat with Flat Brown .
2. Wash with Nuln Oil .
3. Edge highlight with Skrag Brown .

White

1. Lots of ways to do this. Lately I've been starting with Light Neutral Grey . My bottle is actually called Bright Neutral Grey.
2. Wash with a 1:1 mix of Speedpaint Medium and Ashen Stone .
3. Edge highlight with a pure white. I use Bold Titanium White .

Basing

1. Get a creamy texture on, not one with fine grit. I like Huge Miniatures' Desert texture paste.
2. Paint over the texture with Yellow Ochre .
3. Wash with Seraphim Sepia .
4. Drybrush all over with Ungor Flesh .
5. Drybrush again with Skeleton Legion . Ushabti Bone will do the same job.
6. Finally, if you have rocks on the base, I like to wash them with Fyreslayer Flesh .